Avenue of the Giants

As Seen in "101 Things To Do" magazine (Humboldt edition)

Stay at Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Take a Hike in the Redwoods
Enjoy Eel River's Swimming Holes
Stay at a Genuine Stagecoach Stop
Taste Wine at Riverbend Cellars

See the Travel Log at the Visitors Center Camp with Your Horse at Cuneo Creek
Stop by a Classic Old Roadhouse
Experience the Immortal Tree
Visit the Eternal Tree House

Humboldt Redwoods State Park
The natural crown jewel of the county is Humboldt Redwoods State Park . This is a definitive spot to see the magnificence of California 's famous coastal redwoods. In the early part of the last century there was a nationwide effort to save what remained of the old growth redwoods on California 's North Coast . Philanthropists and civic clubs began buying groves of trees for the purpose of preserving them. Humboldt Redwoods State Park was founded in 1921 with one of those purchases, the Bolling Memorial Grove, in honor of a fallen World War I soldier. Today Humboldt Redwoods is California 's third largest state park, occupying 53,000 acres, including 17,000

photo by Greg Rumney, www.chromogenics.com

acres of pristine old growth redwoods. Humboldt Redwoods star attraction is the Avenue of the Giants. The park is rarely crowded, and offers more than 250 campsites in three large drive-in campgrounds. Plus there are environmental, group, backcountry and horse camps. Hikers can enjoy more than 100 miles of trails, some of which are also open to equestrians and mountain-bikers. The South Fork of the Eel River provides fishing, boating and great swimming holes. The park also features a number of day-use areas. The Humboldt Redwoods Visitor Center , on the Avenue of the Giants between Myers Flat and Redcrest, is the heart of the park. It is large and comprehensive, staffed by knowledgeable volunteers. Call the Visitor Center at (707) 946-2263. Following are some of the park's more interesting attractions. All distances are measured from the Visitor Center .

Photo by Andrew Bird; Click for larger image

Take a Hike in the Redwoods
Humboldt Redwoods has hundreds of miles of trails. There are so many it's hard to decide where to hike. Here are the five best hikes chosen by the volunteers of the Humboldt Redwoods Interpretive Association, who staff the Visitor Center . A map available at the Visitor Center for under $2 clearly marks the location of the trails in the park. 1. Founder's Grove Nature Loop Trail. An easy hike, just

over two-thirds of a mile in total. The trailhead is easy to find off the Avenue of the Giants about four miles north of the Visitor Center . (See map on pages 28 and 29 for trailhead locations) 2. Rockefeller Loop Trail in Rockefeller Forest . The trailhead is off Mattole road, about a mile west of where Mattole Road joins the Avenue of the Giants, four miles north of the Visitor Center . In this short hike, also just two-thirds of a mile long, hikers will find 17 of the world's 100 tallest trees. 3. Bull Creek Trail South. This is a seven-mile round-trip hike through the Bull Creek State Wilderness, at 10,000 acres the largest section of old-growth redwood forest left. This trail is accessed off the Rockefeller Loop Trail. 4. Johnson Camp Trail. This 10-mile round-trip trail has some steep sections as it climbs to a backcountry camp. Hikers will find deserted cabins the loggers once slept in, along with other interesting artifacts from the heyday of logging. This is also an equestrian trail, so hikers may encounter horseback travelers along the way. The trailhead is about six miles west on Mattole Road , across from the Albee Creek Campground. 5. Grasshopper Multiuse Trail. This is a 14-mile round-trip that takes hikers to the fire lookout atop Grasshopper Peak , which tops out at 3,379 feet. It is an 8-hour round trip for average hikers, who enjoy stunning views of the entire park from the lookout. photo by Greg Rumney, www.chromogenics.com There is a backcountry campground just below the peak. This trail is open to horses and bicycles; hikers are likely to encounter both. Access the trail from the Johnson Camp trailhead.

bird; Photo by Andy Click for larger image

Enjoy Eel River's Swimming Holes
One of the most striking features of Humboldt County is the magnificent Eel River . Designated as a National Wild and Scenic River , the Eel River 's watershed is the third largest in California. The river flows through five counties with winding lazy curves to churning whitewater. It runs parallel to the coast and Highway 101.

Stay at a Genuine Stagecoach Stop
The peaceful village of Myers Flat is nestled in the heart of the redwood forest, a centerpiece of the Avenue of the Giants. The Myers Country Inn, a delightful B&B, anchors the village which formed up around it over 130 years ago when it was a stagecoach stop on the way to the Yukon gold fields.Jack London, the famous San Francisco author, was said to have stayed there often as he traveled up and down the old Pacific

Courtesy of Myers Flat Inn; Click for larger image

Highway on his many adventures. The Inn still basks in period furnishings and regales in its history with old news clippings and photos hang throughout the building. The ambience is as warm and friendly as the fireplace in the lobby, and the breakfasts are home-cooked and country-hearty. The Myers Country Inn is surrounded by gourmet experiences for the Redwood visitor. A four-star restaurant, winery and tasting room (Riverbend Cellars and Groves Restaurant) are just across the Avenue. Directly across from the inn are the Daily Grind Coffee House featuring fine espresso drinks and smoothies, and Four Mori Market and Deli which offers every necessity for the traveler, (and some of the area's best specialties including Brio artisan-baked bread, local microbrews and fresh local produce). Within walking distance of the Inn are antique and collectible shops, a coin-operated laundry and Myers Flat's own Drive-Through Tree. Stay for an extended visit in the largest Redwood Forest worldwide, plan an eight-day eco-tour and experience life as it was when the “stage” ran through this charming riverside village. For more information, call the Myers Country Inn at (800) 500-6464. www.myersinn.com

Taste Wine at Riverbend Cellars
This winery, located on the historic site of the old Morrison Jackson Sawmill just off Highway 101, is surrounded by 30 acres of vineyard nestled within a 280º bend of the south fork of the Eel River at Myers Flat. New World winemaking techniques combined with European roots produce food-friendly wines with varietal character at moderate alcohol levels, as well as complexly flavorful blends. Riverbend wines are eminently drinkable now, but crafted to age they will improve in your own cellar for another two to 10 years. Visitors are always welcome to sample the award-winning wines at the “Taste of Humboldt” tasting room, or as an accompaniment to a gourmet meal at the on-site restaurant “The Groves.” photo by Gregg Gardiner “You don't get to disguise anything in good winemaking. If something is not top quality, we don't use it,” says Thomas Meagher, winemaker and proprietor. A leader in the effort to

establish Humboldt as the home of “artisan” wineries and vineyards, Riverbend Cellars' tasting room is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. It also offers a selection of specialty foods, picnic items, local art and much more. Riverbend Cellars is located on the Avenue of the Giants in Myers Flat (at the Highway 101 and Myers Flat exit). For more information, call (707) 943-9907. www.riverbendcellars.com

See the Travel Log at the Visitors Cen ter
Inside the Humboldt Redwoods Interpretive Visitor Center resides a curious behemoth of a vehicle. It just may be the original RV. In 1917, Charles Kellogg, an American naturalist and lecturer, hoisted a six-ton hollowed-out giant redwood log onto the chassis of a Nash Quad, a large truck the Nash Company built for the military in World War I, one of the very

first 4x4 vehicles. Kellogg used an axe and an adz to hollow out the log, and fashion it into a cabin on wheels. Inside the log, he built a complete home with a kitchenette, lockers, beds, dining table, dresser, electric lights, running water and a guest room. And this was 90 years ago! The log is completely solid; the walls, ceiling, and floors are all one piece.To help preserve it, Kellogg hand-rubbed 12 pounds of beeswa into the wood. Kellogg first toured the United States in his Travel-Log to sell liberty bonds for the war effort. After the war, Kellogg, also known for his surreal ability to imitate bird calls, traveled the states to promote preserving California 's giant trees. He crossed the country four times in his lumbering motor home. Today, the Travel-Log is in beautifully restored condition. Guests at the Visitor Center can get close to it, but are not allowed inside it. The exhibit also features information about Kellogg's life and teachings. Park headquarters and the Visitor Center are located on the Avenue of the Giants, State Route 254, between the towns of Weott and Myers Flat. This ancient truck is very delicate and consequently is roped off to keep it preserved. However, if you want to have the experience, you can visit the Immortal Tree in Redcrest on the Avenue of the Giants and climb aboard their lovingly restored log truck.

Camp with Your Horse at Cuneo Creek
Cuneo Creek Horse Camp is a complete campground designed specifically for equestrians and their animals. The camp features five family campsites, accommodating up to eight campers each, with two corrals on each site. Two group campsites accommodate up to 90 campers and their horses, with a total of 28 corrals. The sites accommodate large trailers

photo by Emily Peterson; Click for larger photo

and RVs. The camp includes amenities for people and equines; including showers, fire rings, picnic tables, water troughs, corrals, manure bins and hitching posts. The group campsites and family campsites are reservable by calling (800) 444-7275. The camp also includes day-use areas with tie rails. Perhaps the best the camp has to offer is access to more than 50 miles of trails through the redwoods. Many of the trails are multiuse, open to hikers and mountain bikers, so caution is urged. The park is also home to black bear and mountain lions. The camp is located near Albee Campground, about three miles away, which features evening campfire programs, guided nature walks and Junior Ranger programs for children. Cuneo Creek Horse Camp is on Mattole Road , about eight miles east of the junction with the Avenue of the Giants. While at the horse camp, please remember the following State Park rules: • dogs MUST be on a leash at all times and are NOT allowed on the trails • wood gathering is prohibited • horses are not allowed to be loose at any time • firearms are prohibited • corrals must be cleaned before leaving Cuneo Creek Horse Camp is open during the summer months, exact opening and closing dates vary from year to year. For further information, call headquarters at (707) 946-2409 or Ranger Emily Peterson at (707) 946-1805.

photo by Andrew Bird; Click for larger photo

Visit Julia Morgan's Four-Fireplace
Early in the 20 th century, women's civic groups around California organized a statewide campaign to protect the redwoods in Humboldt County . In response, the California Federation of Women's Clubs purchased a grove of giant redwoods next to the South Fork of the Eel River .In 1931, renowned San Francisco architect Julia Morgan, designer of the Hearst Castle , fashioned a monument to celebrate saving the grove from the loggers' saw.

Morgan's monument stands today in the federation's grove — a peculiar four-sided hearth that features fireplaces facing each direction. Officially called the California Federation of Women's Clubs Hearthstone, it was built of native stone and redwood timber. Morgan's biographer wrote that the Hearthstone is a symbol for “the untouched nature of the forest and the federation's scrupulous protection of this heritage.” The California Federation of Women's Clubs Grove is easy to reach by car, and is a popular picnic place. Take Avenue of the Giants about three miles north from the Visitor Center . A sign marks a narrow road that runs to the west several hundred yards into the forest, to a parking lot. The hearthstone sits under several tall trees, a few feet back from a bank that overlooks the Eel River . There are several picnic tables, including two built of solid redwood big enough to accommodate a family reunion. This is a popular spot for weddings.

Stop by a Classic Old Roadhouse
Once thought to be a dying institution, the all-American roadhouse still survives in northern California. Roadhouses are small, old inns; usually with a dance hall, a tavern with extremely cold beer and some form of fresh, pub-style food - usually found on an old highway or rural route, far beyond any city limits or bright lights. While the Eel River flooded out most of the little towns along the Avenue of the Giants in the 50s and 60s, the water only rose to the back door of the Riverwood,

sparing it to become a cult classic. The original structure, thought to have been built in the 1930's, has rocked as a roadhouse ever since. The Riverwood is one of only a handful remaining roadhouses among scores that populated old Highway 101. It is certainly the most famous. The entertainment is legendary; John Lee Hooker, Norton Buffalo, the Knockouts and Guitar Shorty have all played here to the delight of the road-weary. The Riverwood Inn is open year-round, with a winter fire to greet travelers in the not-so-off season. It offers snug rooms, a full bar complete with vintage red velvet wallpaper, fresh authentic Mexican food made with local organic produce and some of the best live music north of San Francisco. For reservations or more information on the Riverwood Inn, call (707) 943-1766 or the restaurant at (707) 943-1930. www.riverwoodinn.info

Experience the Immortal Tree
Along the Avenue of the Giants off Highway 101 stands one of the most durable trees in history. The Immortal Tree is over 950 years old and has experienced more trials and tribulations than any single tree should. It has been a victim of lightning strikes, fires, floods and the logger's ax. Yet it still stands and continues to grow heartily. Look up and you'll see a wooden fish attached to the trunk where the color

of the bark changes. This indicates the high water mark when the area flooded in 1964. There's also part of an ax left stuck in the tree where loggers tried to cut it down, but eventually gave up when the tree would not give way. Several times, the Immortal Tree has been hit by lightning. The evidence of these strikes is on its scarred trunk. During its lifetime, through many forest fires, somehow this magical tree never burned down. The Immortal Tree is considered a truly exceptional specimen. This landmark makes for a wonderful photo opportunity and is a perfect spot for a picnic. The spacious gift shop, family owned and operated since 1967, offers high quality, locally produced redwood items. They added a new 49-space, state-of-the-art RV Park in 2007.

Drive Through a Tree
During the early 1920s, promoters of California 's tourism industry devised a clever way to entice visitors to see the captivating beauty of the redwood forests; cut a tunnel through a redwood and charge people a fee to drive their cars through to the other side. It was a great photo opportunity that quickly caught on. In time, there were drive-thru trees, drive-on trees, walk-through trees and even step-thru stumps.Three trees with open trunks remain, one near Humboldt Redwoods State Park on Highway 101. All are privately owned, charge a nominal entrance fee and are open daily year-round. The Shrine Tree - photo by Greg Gardiner The Shrine Drive-Thru

photo by Gregg Gardiner; Click for larger photo

Tree is one of California 's oldest tourist attractions and is located in Myers Flat off Highway 101 on the Avenue of the Giants. It is said that teamsters in the late 1800s could pull their coaches through the tree. This Drive-Thru Tree has a diameter of 21 feet. When you stand inside you can see the natural tunnel, hollowed out by fire generations ago, and you can see the sky above. Your entry fee into the Shrine Tree Park also admits you to the Step-Thru Stump, Drive-On Tree, Rings of History, two-story tree houses for children and a gift shop. The Tour-Thru Tree in Klamath is 90 feet tall (the top of the tree was blown off in a storm) and the tunnel was bored out in 1976. The redwood is over 700 years old. There is a picnic table as well as a modern restroom uniquely located inside an eight-foot diameter redwood trunk. The Tour-Thru tunnel measures over seven feet high and over nine feet wide, large enough for a van. However, due to the steep grade and a sharp curve on the way to the tree site, trailers and large motor homes are prohibited past the tollbooth. To find this tree, use the Terwer Valley exit off Highway 101 in the town of Klamath . The Chandelier Drive-Thru Tree in Leggett was hollowed out in the 1930s. The tree itself stands 315 feet high and has a diameter of 21 feet. The tunnel measures about six-feet wide by nine-feet tall. It has ample room for a standard car. However, some vehicles can be too wide. After you drive through the tree, enjoy a picnic, view the duck pond, visit the gift shop for a souvenir or wander through some of the park's 250 acres of redwood grove.

Visit the Eternal Tree House
When visiting the Avenue of the Giants, a fascinating stop is the Eternal Tree House. This one-time giant of nature has endured over 2,500 years before being reduced to a surviving stump. The still-living stump contained a huge cavern caused by fire centuries ago that had been used first by Indians and later trappers, hunters, travelers and their livestock for shelter. In the early 1900s, Harry McLeod, an expert wood splitter

hewed out the interior with an ax and adze. The 20-foot room was refined in 1950 and a gift shop was established inside the stump. The walls still bear the marks of the work and are mementos of an all but lost art. The tree itself is said to have parented many surrounding trees from its burl. A burl is a hard conglomerate of many dormant buds; the original single bud grew, but failed to develop into a branch. The irregular growth proceeds to divide and redivide until a lump (burl) has formed. Some of the overgrowth is actually a form of scar tissue, resulting from a past injury to the tree. The Eternal Tree House in Redcrest offers free admission, a cafe and a gift shop with a large selection of locally crafted redwood products. There is parking for RVs and buses. For more information, call (707) 722-4262.